Raggedy, Crows and Watermelons
 

click here for pattern
 

General  supplies:

v      Punch Needle (Cameo) medium needle, set at 1

v      Needle Threader for PunchNeedle

v      Susan Bates Embroidery Hoop with Locking Lip

v      3 strands of embroidery floss or Pearl cotton thread 5, 8 or 12 - The thread should be able to move freely through the needle.  Colors listed are only a suggestion – experiment with colors you like.

v      Weaver’s Cloth

v      Small, Sharp Scissors

v      DMC floss – black, ecru, 976 orange, 3012, 3051 green 3328 pink, 3777 red, 3774 flesh, 347 red

 

 

Punchneedle projects in the picture were punched with 3 strands of DMC embroidery floss.  See color photo for color placement


Crows – black, beak 976 orange

Watermelon – rind – sew rows alternating 3012 light green and 3051 dark green, punch ecru between the rind and the 3328 pink watermelon, Seeds – black set at 2 or 3

Face – punch eyes black and 3777 red nose, fill in with 3774 flesh

Hair – Punch 2 rows or 3777 set at 12

Apron – outline black, fill in with ecru, heart 347 red

Dress – outline black, fill in with 347 red, randomly make ecru polka dots set at 3

Socks – outline black, alternate stripes with ecru and 347 red

 

 

Transferring design to fabric

Iron the block designs on the wrong side of the fabric – PRESS and LIFT – do not slide.  Hold in place about 5 – 7 seconds depending on how dark you want it to be.  You will be punching on the backside – this will try your patience – you will peek at the right side a lot of times to see how it is looking. 

 

 

General directions

1.  If you are using the Cameo needle read the booklet very carefully – great, easy to follow directions. 

2.  Keep your fingers away from the tip of the needle - you only want to punch the fabric – not your fingers.

3.  Use very tightly woven fabric like Weaver’s cloth. 

4.  When you run out or thread or need to change colors put your fingertip on the last stitch to hold it in place, and gently pull the needle to the side a bit with a little extra thread, cut off the excess.

5.  Outline each section before filling it in.  Start with the smallest details, next the border and last the background.  Stitch from the center out.  The loops should be uniform in size.

6.  If you don’t like what you are done just pull it out and start over.

7.  If you make a hole and can’t hold the loops just iron a piece of interfacing over the area.

8.  Thread the needle following the directions that come with your needle.  Set the loop size at 1, the larger the number the larger the loop. 

9.  If hand dyed floss is used you will have a variegated look to your finished piece.  You can achieve the same look by using 3 strands of floss that vary slightly in color.

10. Center and stretch the fabric pattern side up, over the locking lip of inner ring.  Slide the larger hoop over the top, making sure that the locking lip will be on the top of the larger hoop – this will help to keep the fabric taut. Stretch the pattern tightly in the hoop as you continue to tighten the top hoop. Be sure to get the pattern stretched as tightly as you can or you will have a problem with the punching, but watch that you don’t distort it.

 

 

How to punch

For the best directions I have found visit http://www.amherst-antiquesfolkart.com/PunchNeedle_Howto.htm

Hold the handle of the needle like a pencil with the needle perpendicular to the fabric. Place the needle tip just barely inside the pattern line, with the bevel side of the needle in the direction you are moving the needle, I like to go side to side, then punch straight down through the fabric until the depth gauge hits the fabric, you will hear a “pop” sound when you punch down correctly.  Slowly retract the needle straight back up and out of the fabric, but do not lift the tip of the needle off the face of the fabric.  Lifting the needle will pull the loops on the front shorter and create loops on the back, or it could pull out the loops from the front altogether.  Slide the needle over a couple of threads in the fabric and then punch the next loop. Keep the stitches close together as you punch each row.  When you get to the end of row you can turn you hoop with the needle down, always watch the bevel side, making sure you are stitching in that direction.  Stitch each row a little less than a needle’s width away from the last one.

 

 

Finishing

The piece can be stained when completed if desired.  Dab a strong solution of tea or coffee on with a paintbrush.  Allow to air dry or in the oven (160 degrees) – make sure you check every 5 minutes.  Repeat as desired.

Remove the piece and press up to the design.  If it does not lay flat you can steam the back lightly and press.  Do not press much as it will flatten your loops.  If there are any stray or long loops move them with the needle or cut them off with a sharp pair of scissors.

 

To frame leave enough fabric to wrap around to the back of the foam core or mat board and tape it in place. 
 

Hope you enjoy making this stitchery  
  If you would like to send me any comments or notes please Email Me.  I love hearing from my visitors.